Surf Session

A beautiful day to surf. My brothers went surfing earlier in the day but the waves were way too big for me. So they took me to this beach which has a beautiful break outside and just perfect for beginners. Every once in awhile you get a great set rolling in. My dad has these great long boards that we used as kids. Did I say BIG and heavy! You can barely reach your arm around it to carry it. It was a long paddle out to the waves...I probablly wouldn't have made it out without the help of my brother Jared! He was great! When a big wave would come he would tell me to start paddling and then he would give me a big push! I caught 4 waves...three of which were beautiful...I stood up and rode the wave all the way in...only to have to paddle out again...it was very exhausting! I about died on the 2nd wave though...it was REALLY big & I was up on the nose too far...I "purled" it (I think it is a combination of "hurled" and "pounded") I felt the board nose dive and I did a complete somersault....my feet went down and hit the reef...& I was waiting to hit my head and drown! But I am a very determined woman so I popped up and paddled out to take some more abuse! Luckily the other waves were much kinder to me. Whewww that was scary...! Growing up as the only girl with six brothers...you kind of do what they do!

Here we are: Jared, Me & Cameron awwww the hardest part is paddling out...I forgot how much it takes to get out past the waves...and this surf spot is more for beginners...I can't imagine how they get out to the 6foot plus waves. Jared was sweet every once in awhile he would give me a BIG push to get me out over the crashing waves. Okay this picture is pretty pathetic. My personal photographer, my brother-Cameron, ran to buy some fish steaks for dinner and missed some of the good waves I caught! This picture is of the whitwash so I barely had enough umfff to stand up by the end. I wish he was there for the other waves because they were awseome! And I have no idea when I will get to surf again! Especially after hearing from my friend Thomas that a tourist drowned at this beach a few hours before we were there. (Glad I didn't know...I might have chickened out...a widowed husband and 5 motherless kids would be horrible.)